We took our time in the morning and had a delicious breakfast at the hotel. I ate my weight in mango, guava and papaya and Enzo really enjoyed the tamale once he realized he wasn’t supposed to eat the husk.
We walked from our hotel to Bosque de Chapultepec and strolled through the park on our way to the Museo Nacional de Antropologia. The Bosque is a 1,695 acre ecological space that serves as the city’s most important “lung”. It felt as though we were the only non-Mexican people there, which was nice! It’s summer vacation in Mexico, too, and there were many summer camp groups visiting the Bosque - in addition to its popular castle it houses a zoo and botanical gardens - as well as families enjoying the day together. The paths were lined with vendors and food stalls selling everything from drinks and snacks (takis, my new obsession) to leashes for children (only 10 pesos!).
There are recycling stations everywhere throughout the city where one can toss compostable matter, recyclable items and trash. This puts México City light years ahead of New York...
We made it to the Museum of anthropology and after only a short queue we were on our way. The expansive interior courtyard right past the museum’s entrance is breathtaking.
We toured all the exhibits starting with an introduction to anthropology, evolution and human migrations. We were then treated to a vast collection of pre-Colombian anthropological and archeological artifacts. After careful deliberation with the kids, here were our top five:
1. The giant Olmec Heads!
The kids loved the colossal Olmec heads which are, to date, two out of only seventeen that have ever been discovered. The Olmec came and went BEFORE the Mayans and Aztecs and have been dated all the way to the Stone Age. How this ancient civilization managed to carve and transport 20 tonne sculptures is beyond me. Maybe that’s why they look so grumpy.
2. Aztec Sun Stone, or « Piedra del sol »:
Featured on the back of the 10 peso coin, this 24 tonne carved basalt stone is truly a sight to behold. There are many theories about its origins and purposes, but the kids stuck to the most awesome story which is that it was a ceremonial altar to the Aztec sun god, Tonatiuh, who is featured in the center of the stone holding a human heart. That’s right, folks, the Aztecs were big on human sacrifices! Enzo tried ripping his sister’s heart out but only succeeded in grabbing her boob.
3. The fountain
The Paragua (umbrella) fountain stands tall at the entrance of the internal courtyard. It’s no wonder it has become the symbol of the museum as it is truly magnificent. The carved bronze column at its center depicts Mexico’s rich history beginning with the integration of the indigenous people and the Spanish conquistadors.
4. Mesoamerican bloody ball game
This “sport” was played in keeping with the movement of the sun. The players had to bounce a heavy rubber ball off of their bodies (not their arms and not off the floor) and ultimately get it through elevated stone rings that were placed along an upper case I shaped court. Betting was also a big part of the game. Word on the street is that the losing team was decapitated. Mesoamericans were messed up!
5. Pakal’s funerary mask and tomb
Although the tomb at the museum is a replica of the original Mayan tomb that is located in Palenque, Chiapas, Pakal the Great’s funerary mask is showcased and it is spectacular.
...
After the museum we walked to La Condesa and had a lovely late lunch at Lardo followed by delicious Ice cream at Neveria Roxy (it’s been around since 1946!). We then walked through the Tanguiis del Martes (Tuesday's Farmers market) where all the locals do their food shopping. I got suckered into buying more fruit than we will manage to ingest before we leave, but I like to think that I’m supporting the local agricultural economy.
By the time we made it back to the hotel we had walked 10km/6 miles and it was time for a nap. We waited for Luigi to return from work and hit the hotel pool before heading out for a lovely (but perhaps overly rich) dinner at Merotoro where I continued to explore my new found love of Mezcal.
There are recycling stations everywhere throughout the city where one can toss compostable matter, recyclable items and trash. This puts México City light years ahead of New York...
We toured all the exhibits starting with an introduction to anthropology, evolution and human migrations. We were then treated to a vast collection of pre-Colombian anthropological and archeological artifacts. After careful deliberation with the kids, here were our top five:
1. The giant Olmec Heads!
The kids loved the colossal Olmec heads which are, to date, two out of only seventeen that have ever been discovered. The Olmec came and went BEFORE the Mayans and Aztecs and have been dated all the way to the Stone Age. How this ancient civilization managed to carve and transport 20 tonne sculptures is beyond me. Maybe that’s why they look so grumpy.
2. Aztec Sun Stone, or « Piedra del sol »:
Featured on the back of the 10 peso coin, this 24 tonne carved basalt stone is truly a sight to behold. There are many theories about its origins and purposes, but the kids stuck to the most awesome story which is that it was a ceremonial altar to the Aztec sun god, Tonatiuh, who is featured in the center of the stone holding a human heart. That’s right, folks, the Aztecs were big on human sacrifices! Enzo tried ripping his sister’s heart out but only succeeded in grabbing her boob.
The Paragua (umbrella) fountain stands tall at the entrance of the internal courtyard. It’s no wonder it has become the symbol of the museum as it is truly magnificent. The carved bronze column at its center depicts Mexico’s rich history beginning with the integration of the indigenous people and the Spanish conquistadors.
4. Mesoamerican bloody ball game
This “sport” was played in keeping with the movement of the sun. The players had to bounce a heavy rubber ball off of their bodies (not their arms and not off the floor) and ultimately get it through elevated stone rings that were placed along an upper case I shaped court. Betting was also a big part of the game. Word on the street is that the losing team was decapitated. Mesoamericans were messed up!
5. Pakal’s funerary mask and tomb
Although the tomb at the museum is a replica of the original Mayan tomb that is located in Palenque, Chiapas, Pakal the Great’s funerary mask is showcased and it is spectacular.
...
After the museum we walked to La Condesa and had a lovely late lunch at Lardo followed by delicious Ice cream at Neveria Roxy (it’s been around since 1946!). We then walked through the Tanguiis del Martes (Tuesday's Farmers market) where all the locals do their food shopping. I got suckered into buying more fruit than we will manage to ingest before we leave, but I like to think that I’m supporting the local agricultural economy.
By the time we made it back to the hotel we had walked 10km/6 miles and it was time for a nap. We waited for Luigi to return from work and hit the hotel pool before heading out for a lovely (but perhaps overly rich) dinner at Merotoro where I continued to explore my new found love of Mezcal.
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